Carnet de Bal (1937)

Carnet de Bal by Parfums Revillon was launched in 1937, at a time when the world of cinema, fashion, and high society were closely intertwined. The perfume’s name, Carnet de Bal, literally translates from French as “dance card” (pronounced "kar-neh duh bal"). In the social traditions of the era, a carnet de bal was a small book that women carried to formal dances, in which gentlemen would write their names beside a dance, creating a structured, elegant form of courtship. The name evokes images of glittering ballrooms, flowing gowns, gloved hands, and the youthful excitement of swirling beneath crystal chandeliers. It also recalls the cinematic influence of the 1937 Julien Duvivier film Un Carnet de Bal, which was widely acclaimed in France and abroad, celebrated for its episodic storytelling and star-studded cast—a symbol of glamour, sophistication, and modernity.

The late 1930s was an era poised between interwar elegance and the prelude to modernist experimentation. In fashion, women were embracing more tailored yet fluid silhouettes, with an emphasis on femininity punctuated by refined accessories and luxe fabrics. Perfume was no different: the period was dominated by aldehydic floral chypres, a trend pioneered by perfumes like Chanel No. 5 in the 1920s and evolving toward fresher, greener, and more vibrant compositions in the 1930s. Women of the era were drawn to perfumes that conveyed sophistication and youthful vitality, aligning with the social allure implied by a “dance card”—a fragrant signature meant to attract attention while retaining elegance. Carnet de Bal would have been instantly understood as a perfume for the young and vivacious woman, capable of carrying herself with poise at evening events or daytime gatherings.

Composed by Maurice Schaller, a man with a unique background bridging perfumery glassware and perfume technology, Carnet de Bal is classified as an aldehydic floral chypre. The top notes open with a crisp, sparkling green spiciness from coriander and aldehydes, giving the initial impression of movement and vitality—like the flutter of a silk gown on a dance floor. The heart blossoms with rose and jasmine, their warm, floral richness carrying both sophistication and sensuality, a subtle nod to timeless feminine allure. The base layers of sandalwood and vetiver create a creamy, earthy foundation, while ambergris adds a luminous, animalic depth, and acacia introduces a soft, honeyed sweetness that lingers on the skin. Together, these elements create a fragrance that is spicy, green, and woody, projecting confidence, elegance, and youthful energy.

In context, Carnet de Bal was aligned with the trends of its time yet distinguished itself with a particularly green and vigorous character, combining the crispness of aldehydes and coriander with a warm, woody base. It was both familiar to the sophisticated women of the 1930s—who had already embraced floral chypres and aldehydic florals—and refreshingly lively, evoking the joyous energy of dance, cinema, and modern femininity. In essence, the perfume embodies a fragrant dance card: a playful, elegant, and enduring companion for women who wished to leave a memorable impression.

Original Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as an aldehydic floral chypre fragrance for women. It begins with a fresh spicy top, followed by a cool floral heart, layered over a warm woody base. Carnet de Bal is a spicy, green, and woody fragrance, composed of sandalwood, vetiver, coriander, rose, jasmine, ambergris, and acacia. Youthful and vigorous, it asserts itself with a distinctive green and spicy character. A young perfume for the young, it is suitable for all occasions.

• Top notes: aldehyde, citrus, bergamot, fruits, acacia, lily of the valley, heliotrope, hyacinth
• Middle notes: lavender, tuberose, Roman chamomile, cyclamen, rose, Florentine iris, Grasse jasmine, peach, lily and Madagascar ylang-ylang, coriander
• Base notes: spices, benzoin, Mysore sandalwood, vetiver, ambergris, patchouli, Massif oakmoss, vanilla, civet and musk

 

Scent Profile:

Carnet de Bal unfolds like a carefully choreographed waltz, beginning with a sparkling, aldehydic top that immediately lifts the senses. The aldehydes lend a crisp, effervescent clarity reminiscent of sunlit champagne bubbles, creating an airy, almost abstract sparkle that highlights the first impressions of the perfume. 

Layered over this are bright citrus notes and bergamot, sourced from Italy’s coastal orchards, their zesty, radiant acidity cutting through the richness to add a green, citrusy freshness. The subtle inclusion of fruits evokes soft, juicy sweetness, tempered by the floral freshness of acacia, lily of the valley, heliotrope, and hyacinth, each contributing a delicate, slightly powdery and green facet that keeps the opening elegant rather than saccharine. Together, the top notes form an effervescent, youthful introduction—a sparkling, inviting bouquet that is both playful and refined.

As the fragrance settles, it reveals its cool floral heart, a garden of mid-century European elegance. The lavender adds a soothing, aromatic green clarity, while tuberose and Madagascar ylang-ylang infuse creamy, tropical warmth, their indolic richness balanced by the restraint of Roman chamomile, which contributes a gentle herbal sweetness. 

Cyclamen, rose, Florentine iris, Grasse jasmine, lily, and peach create a layered, multidimensional floral composition: the Grasse jasmine brings a narcotic, honeyed depth, its quality distinct from other jasmines in its full-bodied yet soft elegance, while Florentine iris contributes a powdery, almost velvety texture that softens the floral intensity. The addition of coriander introduces a green, spicy facet that bridges the top’s sparkling citrus with the floral heart, lending the perfume its signature vivacity and complexity.

The base notes bring the composition into warm, sensuous territory, layering depth and longevity over the vibrant heart. Mysore sandalwood provides a creamy, sweetly woody foundation, known for its fine grain and subtle spice compared to Indian or African sandalwoods. Vetiver introduces an earthy, smoky green accent, sourced from Bourbon vetiver or similar high-quality roots, giving the fragrance its grounded, almost forest-like character. 

Ambergris, with its marine, slightly animalic warmth, melds with civet and musk, lending a sensual, skin-like richness that amplifies the floral notes without overwhelming them. Patchouli and Massif oakmoss contribute the classic chypre backbone, earthy, mossy, and slightly bitter, enhancing the perfume’s structure and lingering power. Finally, benzoin and vanilla soften the base with a warm, balsamic sweetness, echoing the rounded character of a young woman’s charm.

From the first sparkling spritz to the lingering woody-aldehydic finish, Carnet de Bal captures a spirited, youthful elegance. It is a fragrance that is simultaneously green, floral, spicy, and sensuous—a masterful interplay of classic European chypre structure with a playful, modern vitality, ideal for a young woman asserting her presence with refinement and exuberance. Each ingredient, from the Grasse jasmine to the Mysore sandalwood, works in concert to create a perfume that is vibrant, complex, and unforgettable.

Bottles:

 

Brandy Snifter Flacon:

The original Carnet de Bal parfum bottle is a striking piece of design, instantly recognizable for its elegant and unconventional shape: an upside-down brandy snifter. This distinctive flacon, used exclusively for the parfum, captures both the sophistication and playfulness of the 1930s luxury aesthetic. Early bottles were understated yet refined, etched simply with matching numbers on the base and the stopper plug for identification. Adding a signature touch of craftsmanship, the top of each stopper bore the Revillon ram logo cut intaglio, a subtle emblem of the house’s heritage. These flacons were presented in soft peach-colored boxes, offering a delicate, feminine complement to the warm amber tones of the perfume inside.

As the years progressed, the packaging evolved while retaining an air of elegance. Later bottles were molded with “Revillon Paris Made in France” on the base, signaling the origin and prestige of the perfume. The stopper’s top featured a cut intaglio “R”, a simpler, more modern monogram, reflecting mid-century design trends. These editions were housed in white presentation boxes, enhanced with a green satin ribbon wrapped horizontally around the exterior, giving the package a tactile, luxurious finish. Some bottles were accompanied by cylindrical boxes covered in white paper adorned with stylized green leaves or feather patterns, reinforcing a natural elegance and visual appeal that echoed the perfume’s floral and woody character.

The New Yorker, 1938:

"Revillon’s Carnet de Bal, in a crystal bottle you’ll treasure long after the contents have vanished, is a delicious floral scent any woman would like; at Bonwit."

The New Yorker, 1938:

"Revillon: Carnet de Bal, new, luxurious, feminine. Amou Daria in vast, square crystal bottles ; it’s a blended, concentrated toilet water, mostly lilac, apparently; $8.50. The bath oil, brisk and verbena-ish, can also be used as a friction rub; $19.50 (Revillon and Bonwit Teller)."

 

For collectors or enthusiasts who might encounter bottles without labels, the Carnet de Bal brandy snifter comes in a variety of sizes, each with a distinctive height: the 0.5 oz stands just under 2 inches tall, the 5/6 oz bottle reaches 2 5/8 inches, and the 1 oz parfum stands just under 2.5 inches. Larger bottles include the 1.5 oz and 1 2/3 oz editions at 2.75 inches, the 2 oz at 3 inches, the 3 oz at 3.5 inches, and the 5 oz bottle towers at 4 inches. These dimensions, combined with the unique snifter shape, make each Carnet de Bal bottle a collectible work of art as much as a vessel for fragrance, a tangible reflection of Revillon’s dedication to luxury, elegance, and meticulous attention to detail.

• 0.5 oz parfum bottle stands just under 2" tall
• 5/6 oz bottle stands 2 5/8" tall.
• 1 oz parfum bottle stands just under 2.5" tall.
• 1.5 oz parfum bottle stands 2.75" tall.
• 1 2/3 oz bottle stands 2.75" tall.
• 2 oz stands 3" tall
• 3 oz stands 3.5" tall
• 5 oz bottle stands 4" tall

 


Other Parfum Bottles:

Other bottles were created for the parfum.

Square splash bottle:

A harder to find bottle is the one spiral amphora crystal flacon created for various parfums by Revillon. It was presented with a black velvet pouch and cylindrical box. The bottle measures just 3.5" long and was a handy size to keep inside the purse.

Mademoiselle, 1961:

"A spiraling bottle inspired by a crystal antique — and Carnet de Bal perfume. By Revillon. $6.60."

A rare presentation is the presentations from Western Airlines. The bottle is a mini purse size flacon of the spiral shaped bottle and came in a little box which had a small tag that read "Western Airlines and Parfums Revillon of Paris proudly present Carnet de Bal."

ASTA Travel News, 1955:

"Service on Western begins with such extra luxuries as reserved seats, filet mignon, and vintage champagne. Western stresses the festive, friendly touches, like a gift of rare perfume for the ladies. It all adds up to an exquisite climax -a superb gift of rare perfume! Western Airlines and Parfums Revillon of Paris proudly present Carnet de Bal."

Metropolitan Magazine, 1956,

“A new personal service to keep the wives of flying business men happy. The stewardesses obtain the traveler’s business card and turn it over to Western’s sales personnel. Within a few days, the lady receives her personal bottle of French Carnet de Bal perfume with a note of appreciation for being patient while Western served the man in her life. The program is extended to mothers, sisters and secretaries for single men.”

Eau de Toilette, Parfum de Toilette, & Eau de Cologne Bottles:

Later bottles would be created for various concentrations, such as the eau de cologne and the eau de toilette.

1947:

"A truly romantic gift for a sweetheart or a wife was a bottle of Carnet de Bal perfume. The bottle is shaped like a heart. The price is $15.00."

In 1969/1970 through 1972/1973, Carnet de Bal was available in the following:

Parfum: Ball-shaped bottle line: very luxurious presentation, from 0.25 oz to 4 oz.; Flat bottle line: flat bottle in a white cardboard box with a woven pattern print, from 0.25 oz to 4 oz. 

Related Products: Parfum de Toilette, from 2 oz to 16 oz.

Ancillary Products: Talcum Powder. 

 The Fate of the Fragrance:

Carnet de Bal by Revillon evolved over the decades as both a fragrance and a cultural icon, reflecting the tastes, fashions, and marketing strategies of each era. Upon its launch in 1937, the perfume was immediately positioned as a luxury item, with Stage magazine noting that it was “the newest perfume…in very de luxe bottles,” priced at $37.50 for three ounces and $62.50 for five—a significant sum in pre-war America, signaling exclusivity. Marie-Claire highlighted its originality, noting the inclusion of real calvados from Normandy, a subtle yet evocative nod to French terroir. The review described Carnet de Bal as a “silent, modest” fragrance, perfect for the woman who preferred discretion yet whose presence quietly enriched the lives of those around her, emphasizing refinement over flamboyance.

By 1938, publications like the Perfumery and Essential Oil Record described its packaging as inspired by the elegance of waltz-era design, connecting the perfume visually to the cinematic world, specifically the French film Un Carnet de Bal, which had captivated audiences in London. This early attention to presentation reinforced the perfume’s association with high society, culture, and romance, situating it as a fragrance for the discerning, cosmopolitan woman.

After World War II, advertisements from the late 1940s sought to reintroduce French luxury to American consumers. In 1948, Carnet de Bal was marketed as “light and appealing,” with matching cologne available to create a harmonious fragrance ensemble. By 1949, publications like Cue noted the growing fascination Americans had with Parisian culture, describing Carnet de Bal as a “real connoisseur’s” fragrance now returning to the U.S. in quantity, reinforcing its status as a collectible and sophisticated perfume.

The 1950s saw Carnet de Bal increasingly associated with elegance, winter luxury, and opulence. Harper’s Bazaar in 1953 recommended it for pairing with “fur and snow-scented air,” a nod to its deep warmth and suitability for the season’s fashion. Combat in 1955 poetically described the perfume as a floral symphony: lily of the valley, rose, heliotrope, acacia, and hyacinth mingling freely with sunlight, emphasizing how the fragrance unfolds naturally, revealing its complexity and sensuality. Advertisements of the same year compared it to a “rainbow on Christmas Eve,” highlighting its freshness, versatility, and radiant allure.

Into the late 1950s and 1960s, Carnet de Bal was firmly established in North America as one of Revillon’s two flagship fragrances alongside Detchéma. A 1959 ad introduced the brand to wider audiences, emphasizing its French origins and sophisticated character. By 1960, it was directly tied to the luxury fur trade, created to complement “magnificent furs; the sables and ermines,” positioning the fragrance as both accessory and statement. Harper’s Bazaar celebrated its vibrancy, noting it was “as fresh as all outdoors, as enchanting as field flowers,” while a 1961 advertisement highlighted its global floral and spice ingredients, reinforcing the perfume’s cosmopolitan character.

The prices for the fragrance in 1960 were:

• 1/2 oz Parfum: $12.50
• 1 oz Parfum: $24.75
• 2 oz Parfum: $49.00
• 3 oz Parfum: $73.50
• 5 oz Parfum: $122.50
• 1/4 oz $4 Parfum in purse flacon
• 1/2 oz Parfum in purse flacons $6.50
• Eau de Toilette $3.75 to $10

Over its early decades, Carnet de Bal evolved from a cinematic-inspired luxury fragrance to a symbol of cosmopolitan elegance and discreet sophistication. It was marketed as versatile yet refined—suitable for women who wanted both presence and subtlety, embodying the elegance of Parisian culture and the allure of modern femininity. Its combination of aldehydes, florals, and woods made it simultaneously fresh, floral, and grounded, a signature for women who embraced sophistication in both style and scent.

Carnet de Bal was discontinued sometime between 1974-1985.

 

Detchema (1953)

Detchéma by Parfums Revillon was launched in 1953, during a period when the postwar world was embracing elegance, glamour, and the revival of haute couture in Paris. The early 1950s were a time of luxury and refinement, marked by Dior’s New Look and the celebration of femininity through fashion, makeup, and, naturally, fragrance. In this context, Revillon introduced Detchéma, a perfume whose very name evokes mystique and exoticism: inspired by the Tibetan sorceress of joy, “Detchéma” (pronounced Det-shay-ma) suggests mystery, playfulness, and empowerment, conjuring visions of distant lands, jewel-toned silks, and the magnetic allure of a woman in command of her elegance.

Women of the era would have related to the name as both aspirational and captivating—a subtle invitation to wear a scent that was as enchanting and worldly as it was luxurious. Interpreted in scent, Detchéma embodies that sense of exotic sophistication, its complexity mirroring the opulence suggested by the Tibetan muse.

The fragrance itself is a rich, aldehydic floral oriental that immediately communicates sophistication and presence. It opens with sparkling lime blossom, lending a citrusy, luminous freshness that feels crisp, dewy, and almost ethereal. This brightness is enhanced by aldehydes, whose clean, effervescent shimmer gives the top a modern, airy elegance reminiscent of Chanel No. 5, yet more restrained and refined, designed to envelop the wearer without overwhelming. From this luminous opening, the perfume deepens into a sumptuous floral heart. Jasmine dominates here, rich and indolic, exuding warmth and sensuality, its lush aroma creating a radiant trail that announces femininity and confidence.

Complementing the jasmine are Oriental rose, lily, and jonquil, whose petals lend a creamy, soft, and slightly powdery floral complexity. Exotic essences sourced from India and Ceylon imbue the blend with nuanced spices and warmth, hinting at faraway lands and luxurious textures, while amaranth, angelica, and Florentine iris add subtle green, rooty, and powdery undertones that lift the florals, balancing richness with refinement. Sycamore wood gives a light woody structure, grounding the perfume while allowing the flowers to float.

The base layers of sandalwood and musk provide a soft, creamy warmth, wrapping the wearer in a comforting, lingering sensuality. These notes create a velvety finish that enhances the perfume’s suitability for grand occasions while still being versatile enough for daytime elegance. Detchéma’s composition is both intricate and balanced—its richness allows it to leave a sophisticated trail, yet its freshness keeps it lively and wearable.

In its time, Detchéma was both in line with trends and subtly distinct. While aldehydic florals were fashionable in the 1950s, the inclusion of exotic orientals and high-quality ingredients sourced from India and Ceylon gave it a unique, cosmopolitan character. Unlike simpler floral perfumes of the day, Detchéma exuded the confidence and worldly sophistication of the modern postwar woman—elegant, accomplished, and always leaving an unforgettable impression. It was designed not just to perfume the wearer, but even to scent luxurious furs, making it the epitome of refined femininity and grandeur.

 

Original Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Detchema is classified as a soft, rich aldehydic floral oriental fragrance for women. It begins with sparkling, fruity top notes including lime blossom, married to an opulent heart of rose, layered over warm tones of musk and sandalwood. Detchema is fresh and floral at the opening, unfolding into a woody final note. Composed of jasmine, jonquil, Oriental rose, lily, amaranth, sycamore, angelica, and Florentine iris, it is very feminine and leaves an extremely rich jasmine trail. The perfume of the elegant woman, suitable for all hours of the day and any occasion, it is, above all, the quintessential fragrance for grand occasions.

• Top notes: hawthorn, amaranth, aldehydes, lime blossom, daffodil, neroli, bergamot, hyacinth, angelica and peach
• Middle notes: Chinese gardenia, tuberose, jonquil, oriental rose, clove, pepper, Florentine iris, Bulgarian rose, Grasse jasmine, lily, Madagascar ylang-ylang, hyacinth, lily of the valley and carnation
• Base notes: aloeswood, myrrh, resins, styrax, castoreum, Massif oakmoss, African patchouli, orris root, frankincense, leather, ambergris, Sumatran benzoin, civet, sycamore, Mysore sandalwood, tonka bean, vanilla, Tibetan musk, Peruvian ambrette and Andean and Ceylon vetiver

Combat, 1955:

"Detchema perfumed water with Revillon extract - here, incense and gums from the virgin forest, mixed with spices brought back by a ship that would serve Cythera via the Bay of Bengal, mix exoticism with jasmine. And castoreum, which as the insidious base of this scent, directs its adventurous quest towards sensuality."

Combat, 1959:

"Revillon, gave this sensual perfume, suitable for fertilizing winter nights, the name of a small goddess of Asian mythology Detchema, of her pubescence rubbed with aromatics mixed with the powerful intoxication of aloes, frankincense and myrrh that the Crusaders brought back from the Holy Sepulchre, emanates the scent of the reproductive quest of Tibetan musk, confused with the tawny tufts of the coats that the trappers gave to the caravanners. But already the little goddess, steeped in the Orient, is intoxicated in the olfactory whirlwinds of our Augusts: rose, lily, tuberose, with a hint of peppery carnation."

Mademoiselle, 1963:

"An exotic meld of fruits and jasmine laced with roses, sandalwood and lime blossoms — Detchema de Revillon (perfume, 2 oz., $55)."

Scent Profile:

Detchéma opens like a sparkling sunrise over an exotic landscape, immediately captivating with a top note blend that feels vibrant, fresh, and luminous. Hawthorn greets the nose with a crisp, green floral quality—slightly tart and dewy, reminiscent of hedgerows in early morning mist. Amaranth adds a subtle sweetness, warm and soft, bridging the freshness of the green notes with the gentle floral undercurrent. Aldehydes shimmer like sunlight on water, imparting an airy, effervescent sparkle that lifts the composition, giving the lime blossom and bergamot a radiant, zesty clarity. 

Lime blossom itself, delicate and slightly honeyed, evokes citrus orchards in full bloom, while neroli from bitter orange blossoms infuses a gentle, sunny floral-green brightness, soft yet unmistakably exotic. Daffodil, hyacinth, angelica, and peach round out the top with touches of green, powdery sweetness, and soft fruitiness, blending to create a luminous opening that feels playful yet elegant.

The heart of Detchéma is opulent, deeply floral, and richly textured. Chinese gardenia brings a creamy, tropical floral quality, intensely lush and velvety, while tuberose adds its characteristic narcotic and indolic sweetness, enveloping the wearer in warmth. Jonquil and oriental rose contribute a rich, honeyed floral elegance, the former bright and green, the latter exotic and almost spicy. Clove and pepper provide a faintly piquant lift, giving depth and vibrancy without harshness. 

The inclusion of Florentine iris—powdery, soft, and slightly woody—adds a refined, tactile sophistication, enhancing the texture of the flowers. Bulgarian rose and Grasse jasmine offer classic, luxurious floral richness: the Bulgarian rose is lush, dewy, and green, while the Grasse jasmine is creamy, radiant, and slightly indolic. Lily, Madagascar ylang-ylang, hyacinth, lily of the valley, and carnation fill in the bouquet with soft, green-floral nuances, creamy sweetness, and delicate spice, blending natural and synthetic accords to ensure clarity, longevity, and diffusion.

The base is where Detchéma truly reveals its oriental depth and sensuality, settling into a warm, complex tapestry of woods, resins, and animalic notes. Aloeswood (agarwood) brings a deep, resinous, slightly smoky sweetness that anchors the composition. Myrrh, frankincense, styrax, and Sumatran benzoin contribute resinous warmth, balancing the florals with rich, balsamic complexity. Aldehydic woods like Massif oakmoss and sycamore lend dry, leafy depth, while African patchouli adds earthy richness. 

Orris root imparts powdery elegance, softening and elevating the heart into the base seamlessly. Animalic notes such as castoreum, civet, ambergris, and Tibetan musk provide a luxurious, sensual trail, enveloping the wearer in an almost tactile warmth. Mysore sandalwood offers creamy, nutty smoothness; tonka bean and vanilla add golden sweetness; and vetiver from Andean and Ceylon sources imparts a dry, smoky, earthy sophistication. Peruvian ambrette—with its musky, slightly fruity nuance—rounds out the base, enhancing the longevity and diffusion of the perfume.

Taken together, Detchéma is a masterclass in balance between freshness, floral opulence, and oriental richness. Each ingredient plays a specific role: the aldehydes and top notes lift and sparkle, the floral heart radiates elegance and warmth, and the base provides enduring depth and sensuality. Exotic sources like Bulgarian rose, Grasse jasmine, and Mysore sandalwood provide unique country-specific qualities—clarity, creaminess, or radiant warmth—that are enhanced by carefully chosen aroma chemicals. The result is a luxurious, complex fragrance that evokes elegance, mystery, and celebration—perfect for a woman seeking refinement, presence, and an unforgettable, rich floral trail.

 

Bottles:

Detchema was originally available in the clear glass "brandy snifter" flacon with ground glass stopper. The brandy snifter bottles were available in five sizes: 3.5" tall, 2.75" tall, 2.25" tall, 1 7/8" tall and 1.75" tall.

Detchema was available in parfum extrait, parfum de toilette, eau de cologne, eau de parfum, powder and bath & shower gel. It also came in two sprays, one large one for the dresser and one for the purse.

In 1969/1970 through 1972/1973, Detchema was available in the following formats:

• Parfum Presentation: Ball-shaped bottle line: very luxurious presentation, from 0.25 oz to 4 oz; Flat bottle line: flat bottle in a white cardboard box with a woven pattern, from 0.25 oz to 4 oz. 
• Related Products: Parfum de Toilette, from 2 oz to 16 oz; Eau de Toilette in a 4 oz spray bottle; Eau de Cologne, from 4 oz to 16 oz
• Ancillary Products: Talcum Powder.

In 1977/1978, Detchema was available in the following formats:

• Parfum Presentation: Prestige faceted bottle, very luxurious presentation box in a black and white color scheme. Central motif of Tibetan inspiration enhanced with a gold trim (from 0.25 oz to 2 oz); Natural spray (1.3 oz)
• Related Products: Parfum de Toilette (from 2 oz to 8 oz); Parfum de Toilette in a natural spray (2 oz and 4 oz)
• Ancillary Products: Toilet Soap

 In 1984/1985, Detchema was available in the following formats:

• Parfum Presentation: Prestige faceted bottle, very luxurious presentation box in a black and white color scheme. Central motif of Tibetan inspiration enhanced with a gold trim (7.5ml, 15ml, 30ml); Natural spray (10ml)
• Related Products: Parfum de Toilette (60ml, 120ml, 240ml); Parfum de Toilette natural spray (60ml, 120ml)
• Ancillary Products: Soap (100g); Deodorant spray (75ml)

In 1990/1991, Detchema was available in the following formats:

• Parfum Presentation: Prestige faceted bottle, very luxurious presentation box in a black and white color scheme. Central motif of Tibetan inspiration enhanced with a gold trim (7.5ml, 60ml, 70ml)
• Related Products: Parfum de Toilette (60ml, 70ml, 240ml)
• Ancillary Products: Soap (100g); Deodorant natural spray (75ml); Perfumed veil (120ml)

Fate of the Fragrance:

In 1978, Detchéma received a complete visual and olfactory refresh, ushering the classic fragrance into a modern era of elegance. The new bottle design and packaging were conceived by Serge Mansau in 1977, whose distinctive touch combined refinement and contemporary lines to reflect the perfume’s luxurious character. Production of these exquisite bottles was entrusted to three of France’s most prestigious glassmakers: Pochet et du Courval, renowned for their crystal-clear, weighty flacons; Saint-Gobain Desjonqueres, celebrated for precision and artistry in glass design; and Verreries Brosse, specialists in elegantly crafted, high-quality perfume vessels. 

Alongside this visual transformation, the fragrance itself was reformulated: the Eau de Parfum was recreated by Claudine Aubert, emphasizing freshness and modern balance, while the Extrait (parfum) retained its original depth and richness under the careful hand of Léon Hardy, preserving the opulent aldehydic floral oriental heart that had defined Detchéma for decades. The result was a harmonious pairing of form and scent—timeless yet revitalized—designed to captivate both the eyes and the senses.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Detchema was discontinued sometime around 1990. 

1994 Reformulation & Relaunch:

It was reformulated and relaunched in 1994 in both eau de toilette and eau de parfum concentrations. Newest reformulated version is classified as a floral chypre fragrance for women with base notes of animal-like essences. It begins with a fresh aldehydic top note, followed by a classic elegant floral heart, layered over a feminine, woody powdery base.

• Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, hyacinth, neroli, peach
• Middle notes: carnation, jasmine, lily-of-the-valley, rose, ylang-ylang
• Base notes: ambergris, orris root, leather, musk, sandalwood, tonka bean, vetiver

Scent Profile:

The 1994 reformulation of Detchéma opens with a sparkling aldehydic brightness that immediately lifts the senses. These aldehydes provide an airy, effervescent shimmer—almost metallic and luminous—casting the first impression as clean, elegant, and modern. Intertwined with this brilliance is bergamot from southern Italy, whose citrus peel adds a tangy, sunny freshness, subtly sweet and bright, balanced by the soft, floral-green nuance of hyacinth, which evokes freshly bloomed spring gardens. Neroli, distilled from the delicate blossoms of bitter orange trees, contributes a radiant, almost honeyed citrus-floral aroma, while peach adds a soft, juicy sweetness, rounding the top notes into a luminous, inviting opening that is at once fresh, elegant, and feminine.

The heart unfolds into a classic floral bouquet, beginning with the peppery-spicy carnation, whose warmth sets a subtle complexity, blending seamlessly with the creamy, indolic richness of jasmine. The delicate lily-of-the-valley adds an airy, dewy transparency, conjuring misted morning petals, while rose—a sophisticated blend of Bulgarian and hybrid rose notes—brings depth, elegance, and a touch of honeyed warmth. Ylang-ylang, with its soft tropical floral sweetness, lends an exotic creaminess that enhances the heart’s sensuality, creating a refined, harmonious floral ensemble that feels luxurious yet accessible, perfectly embodying the 1990s’ modern elegance.

The base is where the perfume reveals its enduring sensuality and subtle power. Ambergris, with its soft marine-animalic nuance, lends longevity and a refined saltiness, heightening the allure of the floral heart. Orris root adds powdery, velvety depth, evoking soft talc and iris petals, while leather and musk introduce a tactile, animalic warmth that grounds the composition and adds sensuality. Sandalwood contributes creamy, nutty smoothness, tonka bean adds a subtle vanilla-like sweetness, and vetiver, particularly from Indonesia or Haiti, brings a dry, smoky, slightly green earthiness that contrasts and balances the sweeter notes above. Together, these elements create a feminine, woody-powdery base that lingers on the skin with elegance and sophistication, making the fragrance simultaneously approachable and profoundly memorable.

This modern version of Detchéma preserves the spirit of the original while emphasizing clarity and wearable elegance, allowing each ingredient to shine individually while contributing to a perfectly balanced, multi-layered chypre-floral experience. The aldehydic top ensures freshness, the floral heart radiates timeless femininity, and the animalic-woody base provides depth and allure—an ideal scent for women who wish to convey both grace and presence.

Detchéma Long Time:

Detchéma Long Time, an eau de parfum, was introduced in 1984 and discontinued shortly afterwards.

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral chypre fragrance for women.

• Top notes: aldehydes, peach, rose, bergamot, apricot
• Middle notes: iris, jasmine, lily, violet, ylang ylang
• Base notes: sandalwood, oakmoss, vetiver

Scent Profile:

Detchéma Long Time opens with a sparkling, effervescent aldehydic top, immediately lifting the senses with a clean, airy brightness. These aldehydes—synthetic molecules that mimic the crisp, shimmering quality of fresh-cut flowers—give the perfume an elegant, almost ethereal luminosity. Intertwined with this radiance are juicy peach and apricot notes, their soft, velvety sweetness evoking the gentle warmth of sun-kissed fruit. The bergamot, likely from Calabria, Italy, contributes a sunny, slightly bitter-citrus brightness that balances the fruit, adding freshness and a touch of sophistication. A hint of rose petals rounds out the top notes, offering a delicate floral heart even as the perfume begins to open, signaling the transition from sparkling to softly romantic.

As the heart develops, iris emerges with its powdery, velvety elegance, reminiscent of soft talc or the subtle texture of iris petals. This is joined by the classic floral richness of jasmine, whose honeyed, indolic facets impart sensuality and depth, while lily and violet introduce a dewy, green floral softness that makes the bouquet feel airy and natural. Ylang-ylang, with its creamy tropical sweetness, adds an exotic, slightly narcotic richness that elevates the floral composition. Together, these middle notes create a harmonious floral ensemble that feels luxurious, feminine, and timeless—a perfect embodiment of the 1980s’ refined elegance.

The base unfolds into the warm, grounding embrace of sandalwood, creamy and subtly nutty, which tempers the floral heart with gentle softness. Oakmoss, the signature chypre element, adds a deep, green, forest-like earthiness that gives the fragrance structure and longevity. Its slightly bitter, mineral facets perfectly balance the sweetness of the top and heart. Vetiver, particularly from Haiti or Java, contributes a smoky, earthy nuance that enhances the dry, woody elegance of the base. Together, these notes create a powdery, woody finish that lingers delicately on the skin, combining elegance, warmth, and presence in a classic chypre-floral harmony.

Detchéma Long Time is a sophisticated floral chypre that opens sparkling and fruity, blossoms into a rich, velvety floral heart, and settles on a warm, green-woody base—an unforgettable fragrance that evokes both refinement and feminine allure.